Not Your Mama’s Cookies – In Search of the Perfect Maracon

With all of the the trips I’ve taken, my favorite souvenirs are not tangible objects, although I’ve snagged some fun things along the way. (Hello, Cartier bracelet!) My favorite souvenirs are the experiences and memories created along the journey.

The Challenge

My recent trip to Paris was no exception. My Aussie friend Jackie Brown gave me a fabulous idea. When she went to Rhode Island, she set out on a quest to find the best clam chowder. The Black Pearl in Newport won out. (I’ve had their clam chowder numerous times and I’d have to agree.) She challenged me to do the same—find the best…something…in all of Paris. My first thought was to set out to find the best flute of champagne!! About two seconds later I decided my son didn’t need to be trotting around Paris with his Mom half lit from the bubbly.

Then I thought about the macaron. If you aren’t familiar with a macaron, it is a perfectly sized, meringue- and almond-based cookie sandwich, simultaneously light and chewy, filled with delicious flavors—everything from raspberry to caramel to green tea. As an Oreo addict, I like to think of a macaron as the Oreo’s upscale, cultured French relative.

Meet the Macaron

Meet the Macaron – photo courtesy of Laduree

So off I went, across the Atlantic, with nearly 50 pounds of luggage and my one and only son in tow, in search of the perfect macaron. Within two minutes of landing at Charles De Gaulle, Corbin and I had a sighting—a delectable little macaron beckoning to us from airport’s Ladurée counter. But tempted as we were, first things first—we needed to get to the hotel to decompress from the long flight.

Our Welcome Macaron

But we didn’t have to wait much longer—walking into our beautiful apartment at the Hotel Raphael, we spied a full spread of treats, including a bucket of chilled champagne, a lovely note from Norbert, the hotel manager, and our first macaron contender. Our quest began.  Strawberry, bite-sized, delicious—the macarons were the perfect welcome to the City of Lights – or the “City of Love,” as Corbin insisted on correcting me about daily!

Diamonds in the Rough

After some sleep and a hot shower, we set out along the Champs Elysees and bought more “classy Oreos”. They came from, of all places, the Publicis Grocery store around the corner, nowhere near as fancy as the Raphael. And they were fantastic! Simple and delicious, they hit the spot.

Temple of the Macaron

For our second macaron stop, we made a pilgrimage to the temple of macarons— Ladurée, the esteemed French bakery and inventors of the macaron as we know it. When we arrived, the line out the door let us know we were in for some serious yumminess. There were two lines – one to sit and eat and a second line to just walk in and buy a box of macarons. After lunch, we munched on the Strawberry, Raspberry, salted caramel, and rose. Corbin devoured two after committing to share them all with me and then reneging once the waiter put them on the table. Of course, they were divine–though the rose macaron was a bit weird to eat. While I love the smell of roses, the taste of rose really threw my senses off. Don’t get me wrong, it was really good. But I wasn’t compelled to order another rose macaron anytime soon. I just like to smell a rose and not taste a rose.

Sharing a salted caramel macaron

Sharing a salted caramel macaron

Our third macaron sample came from Ramella, a little shop in the Marais, one afternoon before we set off on a picnic in a nearby park. We went straight for our favorite flavors strawberry and raspberry. These were good, but I wasn’t blown away. The workmanship was not nearly as neat as the previous two competitors. If you find yourself in the area, though, I highly recommend you pop in and put together some things for a picnic lunch. It was scrumptious, though, I admit, a bit lost on me. By this time in the trip I was over fancy French food and was really craving a quinoa and spinach salad.

Ramella sack

This is all that was left!

We made our fourth and final macaron purchase at an amazing store called Dalloyau. Corbin and I spied the store as we were walking out of the Jardin de Luxembourg after sailing boats.

Corbin at Jardin de Luxembourg

Sailing, takes me away…Jardin de Luxembourg

I’d been encouraged to try a macaron “store” near Jardin de Luxembourg—was this the place? The store was immaculate. The display counters were simply beautiful. I bought one of everything. Corbin yelled at me from across the store, interrupting my impulse-buying spree. He had found the macarons. We bought four and headed out to find a taxi, just as it started to rain.

Dalloyau macaron

Dalloyau Deliciousness- photo by Market Manila

As soon as I bit into the first salted caramel macaron, I knew I’d possibly found the best macaron in Paris. This one had the right amount of firmness and just the perfect amount of soft, sweet filling. It was crafted with the kind of precision that would make an Army sergeant proud. These perfect specimens were so pretty to look at and admire that I almost didn’t want to eat them.

Dalloyau sack

Empty sack #2 from Dalloyau

So where is the best macaroon in Paris? Drum roll, please! I have to give the crown to Dalloyau. From the taste, texture and presentation, they swept the competition. And guess what? I found out later that Dalloyau was actually NOT the store my friend recommended after all—that was a place called Pierre Herme! I guess this means I’ll have to make a return trip, right?

Despite crowning Dalloyau the winner, my advice is this: Next time you’re in Paris, stop and buy macarons whenever you see them! They’re like gelato in Italy – it’s all good! You can’t go wrong. My only caveat? Remember that the calorie exchange rate is exactly the same in Paris as it is in New York City. So leave your skinny jeans at home!

And anyway, half the fun is in the hunting—the time I spent with Corbin taste-testing macarons is what I will treasure long after the cookies are gone.

Paris, We Can Be Friends Now

My first trip to Paris was during college in 1992.  I was studying theater in London and extended my trip two weeks to check out Paris, Florence and Rome.  My distinct memories from the trip were staying in a really bad hotel with my travel companion Ashley Hamilton.  I can’t remember the name of the hotel.  But what I do recall is old, dark red velvet interiors with dark wood everywhere. It felt old.  It smelled even older.   And even after I stepped out of the tiny shower, I still felt dirty.  It was that kinda hotel…college budget lodging at it’s finest.

I set out all around Paris to see the sights.  I walked into a store and bought some Chanel make-up and a bottle of perfume that has become my signature fragrance, Quelle que Fleurs.  I was feeling good about my purchase when we hopped into a taxi and headed to the Eiffel Tower.  I must have been so excited about seeing the Tower because I left my bag of goodies in the taxi!  I realized this and quickly turned around to see taxi pull away and into the sea of traffic.  So long bag of beauty goodies.  Paris was not showing me much love and I certainly wasn’t feeling it.  I left Paris thinking I didn’t need to come back any time soon.

We Meet Again

We Meet Again

My second trip to the City of Lights was in December of 2004.  I was about two months pregnant and sicker than I have ever been in my entire life.  I can’t accurately describe how profoundly crappy I felt at the time.  What I can tell you is this.  I was so ill, I begged my first husband to take me home – like back to Arkansas home!  We were on the last five days of a trip that started in Rome on Christmas eve and was going to end up in Paris five days after the New Year.  He assured me I would be fine.  I wasn’t.

I’d hoped this trip would show me Paris in a new light and that I’d fall madly in love with it just like so many of my friends.  Sadly, as you might suspect, it did not.  It was cold, snowy and I was MISERABLE.  You know how it feels the few moments right before you vomit?  That’s exactly how I felt around the clock for three months.  But here’s the catch!  I NEVER threw up once while I was pregnant! I returned home and never ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever ever wanted to see Paris again.  Or my husband, or a penis!  This pregnancy business was for the damn birds!

As you can imagine it was with great reluctance that I returned to Paris recently.  The trip was booked two years ago.  I decided I did in fact want to go back to Paris but with Corbin. This was his first trip to Europe.  I was very excited to show him his first European city.  Looking back it seems odd that I took him to the one place I said I didn’t want to go back to!  I would pack up and move to Florence in a heart beat, so why we didn’t start there seems odd now that I’m writing this.  Oh, well.  There will be time for Italian travel later.

What I discovered was the source of my second trip morning sicking, nightmare turned out to be the perfect cure for Paris dislike.  Corbin and I had a blast!

Crepes, Coca- Cola Lite and Smile

Crepes Coca-Cola Lite and Smiles

We ate some amazing food at L’Office and Spring.  We hung out in a neighborhood park in the Marais and devoured a picnic lunch.  We set out on a quest to find the best macaroon.  The best macaroon in our opinion can be purchased at Dalloyau. His favorite thing we did? – dinner at the Eiffel Tower.  It’s a super touristy thing to do but he’s 9-years-old and absolutely loved it.  During dinner we witnessed two marriage proposals and visited with an Australian couple who were renewing their vows after 15 years of marriage. So Corbin was right, Paris is the City of Love. Keep in mind he’s 9-years-old, so he was more jazzed about the Lego store than the Louvre. We saw both. But we made a return trip to the Lego store. Shocker, right?

Lego Lion in Paris

Lego Lovin’ Kid

So Paris, the third time was the charm. We can be friends.  Like the kind of friends that see each other after years of not talking and seem to pick up where they left off without skipping a beat. I was worried it would be the third strike and well, you’d be out!

Keep up with DJ and her adventures my following her on Facebook at I Am DJ Duckworth and on Twitter @mrsdjduckworth. She posts some great photos on Instagram @djduckworth.   DJ is the brand ambassador for Exclusive Resorts.  She lives in New York City with her son and the world’s most amazing wiener dog, Leo!

Exclusive Resorts Meet Me There debuts!

Thrilled does not quite describe how I feel about the release of my new web series “Meet Me There”.  I have teamed up with Exclusive Resorts and together we are taking you to some of my favorite travel destinations and few new ones, too! Real del Mar, anyone?  We will show you the highlights in each location and trek off the beaten path to unearth the real travel treasures.

Check out the first video here.  Like it, share it and make sure you subscribe to my YouTube channel I Am DJ Duckworth to catch the upcoming episode of Meet Me There!